Saturday, August 14, 2010

This Will Be The End

I'm home, and I was also home for my last post but I wanted to pretend I was still in Italy.  My journey home consisted of three extraordinarily long days.

Samira and I spent Monday in Milan.  I re-visited the Duomo, this time including the roof.  I struggled to take pictures I hadn't already taken last year, but I did get a few good ones.  It was also a fitting way to end my 15-month relationship with my Lonely Planet: Italy, since the cover photo is of the roof.  I finally succeeded in buying some clothing in fashion-crazy Milan, although it was at H&M so I'm not sure how much that really counts.

Milan gets a lot of crap as the worst city in Italy.  I loved it the first time, partly because it was a beautiful sunny day, my first in Europe after 3 weeks in Prague, and I do think the center is worth visiting.  But aside from that, the canal district is nice, but the rest of the city is so industrial and un-Italian looking.  We tried to go out a bit on Monday night but no one was on the street after 10 pm.  It's the only village, town, or city in the country where that is ever the case.

Tuesday began in Milan, but I spent 4 hours in the Dublin airport and was in New York by dinner time.  I passed 3 alcohol sample stations in the Dublin airport (Bailey's, Jameson, and another one).  I got to see the same group of good people I saw on my way to Italy in June, which made for a great last night of travels.  Unfortunately I forgot my ID because I never needed it in Italy, but a taxi and quick subway ride resurrected the night.

My JFK-San Fran flight was delayed 3 hours, which would have been extremely frustrating had an Italian family coincidentally sat next to me at the gate.  I struck up a conversation and ended up bonding with one final Italian family.  I spoke to the parents in Italian, but the daughter spoke almost fluent English so I helped her practice the language for a while.  But that turned out not to be the best idea because this came out of her mouth...

"I want to travel to China, but my mom doesn't want to.  She won't go there because she hates the people.  She says that when they talk she gets a headache."

My smile quickly disappeared as I subtly/frantically looked around to see if anyone else was staring.  I don't think she was used to speaking English in a place where other people could understand.  Also, anti-Chinese sentiments are strong in Italy.  Europe is generally a more openly racist place than the US, and Chinese shops around the country (but especially in the south) offer discount clothes and goods, and a lot of people don't like that. 

But aside from that comment, I really enjoyed speaking with her parents and watching their adorable 4 year-old son say funny things in Italian (which made me pretty nostalgic for camp).  It was a pretty fitting end to the summer, and I think a good last story for the blog.

Thank you to all those who read a post or two, or all of them, knowing that you're reading has motivated me to keep this going for another summer!

Thursday, August 12, 2010

Inside & Outside Cinque Terre

On Friday afternoon I left Florence for Cinque Terre.  The first time I heard about these five towns was during my sophomore year at Wash U, when I saw pictures on facebook of a few guys I know from school backpacking up a ridiculously colorful street at dusk with flags over their heads.  I asked one of them where that was, and they told me about Cinque Terre.  When I met my friend Samira at the Riomaggiore train station, the town we stayed in for the weekend, the first thing I saw after leaving the station was this street from their pictures (see picture).
 
Samira also has a very well-located friend, although her’s was actually her “host mom” a couple years ago at camp, but she now lives in an apartment just off the main road in Riomaggiore, the biggest of the five towns (meaning 1800 people).  I crashed on a pullout bed in the living room/dining room/second bedroom of her apartment.

The beauty of Cinque Terre is the color of the towns, but the localness was what made the trip special for me.  In Riomaggiore, there are no cars, everyone walks or boats.  During mid-day, tourists rule, but in the mornings and evenings, it’s still a pretty local place.  I went to a market on the main street to buy fruit for breakfast, and most of the people there were residents. 

Samira’s friend probably knew everyone in the town, and a few of her friends came over for dinner one night.  Two of them operate an “ice cream boat,” which is like an ice cream truck except they operate on the seas and cater to other boats, and serve alcohol in addition to ice cream.  We went by one of the main cafes and a friend of her’s who I’d already met was working there.  I’m a huge fan of visiting places where you have friends who live there, and this experience was pretty amazing.

The first night Samira and I went in to La Spezia, the main city near Cinque Terre, for dinner at the restaurant where her friend works.  We got to the station a minute before the train, and the ticket machine wasn’t working.  She already had a ticket, but I did not, and the next train wasn’t for 40 minutes.  So, we hopped on anyway, for the most nerve-racking 8-minute journey of my life.  We tried finding a conductor to explain the situation, but gave up halfway though.  As the train was slowing down, Samira spotted the conductor coming in the other end of the car.  Thankfully, he didn’t reach us in time. 

We got lost on our way to the restaurant but almost an hour later finally sat down for some delicious, albeit minimal, ravioli.  Samira’s friend gave us a nice discount, and we headed back home to Rio(maggiore).

Saturday was boat day.  We visited three of the five towns by a boat that felt more like a seesaw.  The fifth town (most northwest) is Monterosso.  It didn’t look that impressive, but we wandered upward and there were some amazing little paths and crooked buildings (see picture).  We wrapped around the hill that divides the town in two and found our way to a boardwalk along a beautiful beach that we returned to on Sunday.  There was also an excellent foccaciaria there.  Cinque Terre is known for foccacia, and I had about five pieces while I was there.

The fourth town is Vernazza, and it (along with Rio) is the most striking upon arrival.  There is a piazza bordered on three sides by colorful buildings and even more vibrant umbrellas, and the other side is the beach (see picture of Samira & I in the "snapshots" post).  We had lunch there, although I ordered spaghetti with fish, and the fish turned out to be several varieties of shellfish.  But the plain tomato spaghetti was pretty good.

We floated past Corniglia, the middle town which is not as accessible by sea, and moved on to the second town, Manarola.  The buildings here, although colorful, are not particularly beautiful, so we were disappointed.  But we walked to the back of the town and followed an increasingly narrow staircase up into the vineyards facing the town.  We wound up with an incredible view of the center, far below.

On Saturday night I finally had my birthday dinner, I was alone in Palermo for the real thing so there was no sense doing it then.  Samira and I went to a fish restaurant (there are only fish restaurants) right by the sea in Rio, which is a setting that will be hard to beat for any future birthday dinners.

Sunday was hiking day.  I got up early and set off hiking between the towns, visiting all but the farthest one.  The trail began pretty flat and going right along the water, but after the third town went inland a bit and resembled a typical hiking trail, which I actually enjoyed more.  I made it to Corniglia, the high town, which was refreshingly dull.  I say this in the kindest way – I had become overwhelmed by all the color, and there are a lot of old-looking gray buildings mixed up with the colorful ones in Corniglia.  The town is wrapped around a canyon of vineyards, so once again I followed increasingly narrow staircases into vineyards, this time to get pictures of the town, far above. 

We went to the beach for the afternoon and that night was the dinner at Samira's friend's apt, which consisted almost entirely of shellfish.  Because the table is small, our host ate on the bed next to the table, which was above my pullout bed.  Somehow things got moved around and when I woke up in the middle of the night because I was rolling over something, I pulled out a good chunk of lobster (including an antanna) from my sheets.  Not a kosher night's sleep.

Wednesday, August 11, 2010

28 Hours in Florence

I’m writing in the Dublin Airport on Monday afternoon, about halfway through my four-hour layover here between Milan and New York.  Hopefully I’ll get to post this soon.

As I wrote before, my whirlwind week was perfect. It began with the aforementioned road tripping around Sicily.  Then I was back with my last host family from last year near Milan for a few relaxing, adventurous days. 
  
On Thursday morning, I took the speedy train (which was disappointingly not so speedy) to Florence to meet a tutor friend from last year, Simone.  Luckily, she has a friend who has an apartment in the center of the city, and some of her roommates just moved out, so I had a room to myself. 

My goals for Florence were set:
  1. See Simone 
  2. Go to the Bargello, a statue museum I missed out on last year because Lonely Planet told me it closed at 1:50 every day (lie). 
  3. Go to the piazza across the river with a great view of the city and the bronze (maybe copper?) David statue. 
  4. Have really good gelato and possibly aperitivo
… and I did them all! The Bargello was fun, and it worked out well because that afternoon there were torrential downpours, which let up whenever we had to go outside.  We made it to the piazza on Friday morning, which was a much nicer day, and had perfect light/visibility for good picture-taking.

I re-visited Gelateria Dei Neri, one of the best if not the best gelateria I went to last year, and Simone’s friend took us to another gelateria across the river that I’d heard about, which was just as good if not better. 

On Thursday night we went for aperitivo, which I posted a picture of in my last post.  Pretty much, you go to a bar between 7-9 and pay for one drink, usually 7 or 8 euro.  With that drink comes access to an unlimited buffet of appetizers.  Sometimes there are only a few choices, but the place we went to had 20ish choices, including pastas, rice dishes, meat, veggie things, it was wonderful.  So I had three overflowing plates of a mix of delicious food, and a strawberry daiquiri, for 8 euro.

In Florence (and also in Milan), I realized that I should really wait more than a year before re-visiting these incredible places, unless I have specific people to visit.  Last year, the Milan Duomo absolutely blew me away, and this year, when I popped out of the metro and saw it, I thought, “I remember it being bigger.”  When strolling past the Florence Duomo on my way to Simone’s friend’s apartment, I really missed the “WOW!” factor I remember experiencing last year.  I’m still glad I went to these places because of the people I got to see there, but I’m wondering how long it will take for the shock value to regenerate.

Monday, August 9, 2010

Snapshots From The Last Few Days

I don't have too much time to write right now, but I'm at a hotel in Milan on my final night in Italy.  The last week and a half have been absolutely perfect, and here are some pictures from Florence and Cinque Terre.  I'll write more when I get a chance!

1) Amazing aperitivo with Simone (you pay for one drink and get unlimited appetizers)

2) Overlooking Florence with Simone

3) Riomaggiore, the Cinque Terre town I stayed in for the weekend

4) Samira and I upon arrival in Vernazza, another Cinque Terre town

5) Manarola, another Cinque Terre town, from above vineyards.

Wednesday, August 4, 2010

The Mason-Dixon Line Among Other Divisions

Now that I’m back in the north, I thought I’d reflect on a few things these last 6-7 weeks that were completely different from my experience last summer, which is only natural working for an organization that places me in a totally new environment every week or two. I also randomly inserted pictures from yesterday and today, a 20 km bike ride and a trip to Lago d'Iseo, one of Italy's great lakes, both with my host mom and siblings.

The South
This is the most obvious one. But spending a month in Sicily was so incredibly lucky. I feel like I studied abroad there. I spent an evening on the southern coast, an afternoon on the western coast, three days on the eastern coast, two weeks on the northern coast, and a week smack dab in the middle of the island.

SO MUCH FOOD
Last year I took no pictures of food. This year I took many pictures of food. For dinner on Monday, my first night up north this summer, my mom made soup, beef, fish, and a vegetable mix. It sounded like so much when she described the meal, but everyone ate so little of everything! Last week, when I went to a camper’s family’s house for a big dinner, my meal started with 3 big pieces of breaded beef, and there were about 10 other dishes spread across the table (no exaggeration). Last night I wasn’t hungry when dinner finished, but I wasn’t stuffed, which was a strange feeling. It's crazy to remember that last year this family fed me the most of all my host families. I officially have a Southern Italian stomach.

Italian
Even though when I was with this family last summer it was my last week and I’d picked up quite a bit of the language, I speak much, much better now. I didn’t really realize it until yesterday. But last year, my host mom spoke much more with my co-tutor who was fluent in Italian when the three of us were together. Now, I think she’s having conversations with me that she would have had with my co-tutor last year. I communicated much more in English with my host brother here last year, but now I even communicate with him in Italian much of the time. Unfortunately… I realized last week when trying to speak Spanish that Italian is not supplementing Spanish in my mind, but replacing it entirely. Hopefully this is not permanent.

Facebook
I know I mentioned it in my last post, but really, Facebook never came up last summer at camp. When I visited my convent camp near Rome in June, my campers from last year asked if I was on Facebook. And all my campers this year have asked. Lynne and I were teaching the first conditional tense when this happened:

Me: “If you go to China, what will you do?”
Student: “If I go to China, I will eat sushi.”
Me: “No, if you go to Japan, you will eat sushi.”
Other student points to Lynne: “You eat sushi for 24th birthday.”

Lynne’s eyes widened and she turned to me and said “Oh god, they’ve seen my Facebook.” Turns out she has no privacy settings, and she spent the next 5 minutes quizzing the class on her Facebook profile, and many of them knew quite a bit about her.

I always think about telling them that Facebook is from my hometown. If I did ACLE again, I would go around taking pictures of tech headquarters in Silicon Valley before I came to show what my area is known for.

French fries
Maybe they were around last summer, too. But this year, I don’t know if it’s a southern thing or what, but they were EVERYWHERE. Sicilian kids love French fries. I got increasingly frustrated that there is so much amazing fresh, homemade food surrounding them, yet they choose to eat French fries. But maybe it’s just my romantic idea of Italy and it’s offensive for me to not want them to change. A few weeks ago I made a vow to myself to not eat any French fries here, and I’ve stuck to it.

Lateness
Kids in the south all seem to go to bed around 11-12. When I was their age, I think I would go to bed around 8. In the north, kids stay up later than in America but I don’t remember them going to bed super late.

Families
For me, last summer was largely about getting to know the other tutors. I’ve kept in touch with a lot of them throughout the year. This year has been more about getting to know my host families, because I haven’t lived with the other tutors at any camp. Of course I’ve still enjoyed getting to know the other tutors, but I’ve just spent so much more time this year with the families. When I return to Italy, I will have to come south to see them.

Water
Last year, from my first week of camp near Rome to my last week here in Fontanella, I did not see the coast once. This year, I was within 5 minutes of the sea for 4/5 of my working weeks, and the other one was Pool Camp in the middle of Sicily.

Road Tripping

After spending 6+ weeks in the South of Italy, I’m in exactly the same room I posted from this week last year. My last-minute efforts to arrange an exciting last week have proven successful so far, thanks to host families. Hopefully my plans for the next several days will also work out.

On Thursday morning I’ll go to Florence to meet a Canadian tutor friend from last summer, and we’ll explore there until Friday afternoon. I saw Florence for a few days last May, but there are a couple things I missed that I really want to see. Friday afternoon I’ll head to Cinque Terre (5 beautiful coastal towns) to meet another Canadian tutor friend from last summer. Cinque Terre was #1 on my list of things to see this summer (I have so far crossed off Sicily, Pompei, and the Amalfi Coast –Sardinia, Ostia Antica, the rest of Tuscany outside of Florence, and the Dolomites remain), so I’m reeeeeeeeeally looking forward to it. Monday I’ll go to Milan, and I fly out from there the next morning.

But on to the past. On Sunday at 11 pm I was on the southern coast of Sicily. On Monday at 6 am I woke up on the northern coast of Sicily. On Monday at 11:30 am I was outside Milan, the biggest city in northern Italy.

Following the emotional show on Friday night, I spent the weekend road trippin’ with my host fam. On Saturday we went to Segesta, Erice, and the salt part of Trapani (the largest sicty on the western coast). Segesta is an ancient Greek town that has a beautiful incomplete temple and a small amphitheater with a view of both mountains and sea. We were there pretty early in the day, so there were very few tourists, and I get the feeling that in general its an overlooked destination because it’s not really near anything.

Erice is a Lonely Planet favorite. It’s a small town on top of a singular mountain near the west coast of the island. The town itself was a bit disappointing, nothing was particularly impressive, but the view was incredible. Because there’s nothing nearly as tall anywhere around, and the clouds actually seem close to hitting your head, it feels like half of Sicily is visible.

Our last stop on Saturday was the salt manufacturing part of Trapani’s coast. There were a couple cool looking windmills (if that’s the accurate name for them), and some of the pools of water were brilliant red. In the picture you can see a singular mountain way back, that’s Erice.

Sunday we took it easy until about 6:30 pm. Our destination was Agrigento, the largest city on the southern coast of the island, and about 1:45 away from the house. My host parents insisted on visiting the Valley of the Temples there at night. My host mom cooked a big dinner before we left and said we’d eat it when we got back. I was confused because we were leaving at 6:30… the place was 1:45 away… we’d probably spend a couple hours there….

The temples were beeeeeeeeeautiful, and I’m really glad they decided to go at night. There were only a few other people, the temperature was perfect, and the temples’ glow was amazing. We saw three of the ancient temples there, and each was very noticeably different. I’m always really thankful for host families that do their best to show you their favorite places nearby, and I think this was my host parents’ favorite place in Sicily (at least at night).

But then it was time to go. I was already hungry when we arrived (we’d last eaten around 2:30 pm), and my little host brother was complaining very loudly, as I’m sure I would have been in his position. We drove around the city for a little while, but it was Sunday night, so we didn’t see anything open. My host mom said that we’d just wait til we got back home (which would be 12:30 am) and eat the dinner she had made. Luckily, as we were turning to find the highway entrance, I saw a sign for a self-service restaurant that was open, so we got a pizza for the road. However, we did indeed have dinner at 12:30 am when we returned.

Tuesday, August 3, 2010

1 2 3 - Eyes on Me

My first two shows this summer were pretty typical. This last one was extremely memorable, for better, and for worse. I wrote this post over the weekend, but haven't had sufficient internet access to post it til now (I'm with my last host fam from last year, in Fontanella 45 min east of Milan).

Warning: The story that is most of this post is really, really long, and perhaps makes a huge deal out of something that wasn't really a huge deal, but it certainly felt like a huge deal at the time. I mostly wanted to write it out so I would remember it, but feel free to read the whole thing. To skip it, scroll down to the bold “The rest of the night began with tears.” That's the beginning of the happy part.

It all began on Thursday, when I figured out how to have iTunes start playing a song at a certain point in the middle, not at the beginning. This is SO useful for a show, because usually the kids only sing the chorus, not from the beginning.

I shared the discovery with my co-tutors, and Lynne wanted me to use the feature for her two songs, “Waving Flag” by Wash U WILD veteran K’naan, and Shakira’s “Waka Waka,” the indisputable song of the summer, at least in Italy. Both are songs of this year’s World Cup. We chose the starting points for both songs, although I went back to double check the starting time for “Waving Flag” because the lyrics were a bit off from what Lynne’s group was singing, but it was fine.

Fastforward to Friday night – the final show. Since the show was at 7 and not at 5 (when most of my shows are), the place was packed because almost all of the parents could actually make it. Everything was going fine, and then it was Lynne’s show. Her group was doing an international beauty pageant, with like 6 or 7 songs (usually groups do 1 or 2, but this group was amazing and Lynne had a lot of song ideas). I was the music man, and also the Loch Ness monster, when Miss Scotland’s turn came.

The show began smoothly, and then it came time for “Waving Flag.” I clicked the song, and it started at the beginning, not at the designated start time we had set. I looked up at the group and at Lynne, who were all staring at me, confused. I quickly remembered that we had set it to exactly 1:00 in, so I fast forwarded and everything was fine after a few seconds of hesitation.

I couldn’t figure out why the start time hadn’t worked (I later remembered that when double checking the start time earlier, I had unchecked the box that said “Start time: 1:00” in order to listen to the whole song, and had forgotten to re-check it). So I urgently checked “Waka Waka,” to make sure that one would start on time. That one was fine, but while checking I had forgotten to stop “Waving Flag,” which had gone on for a few seconds too long, and Lynne and her group were again staring at me.

Sufficiently embarrassed, I decided to again double check “Waka Waka.” While doing this, I missed my cue to jump in as the Loch Ness Monster, but caught the word “monster” a second later and jumped in, and I’m sure no one aside from Lynne and her group noticed. Still, my humiliation deepened.

I spent the next minute concentrating only on when “Waka Waka” would begin. The time came and I clicked the song. What came out of the speakers was a vague unrecognizable instrumental, with no vocals. Lynne looked at me and said, “That’s not Waka Waka.” Roberto, the camp director, picked up the mic and started talking a bit to ease the awkwardness, while the girl in Lynne’s class who was going to dance to the song just stared at me (pictured, leading kids and tutors in a lunchtime practice), and Lynne had her head in her hands.

Completely confused and nearing traumatization with everyone in the room waiting for me and Lynne and her group wondering why I kept messing everything up, I remembered that the cd with the two World Cup songs should be nearby, and thankfully it was on top of the pile beneath the AV desk. I put it in and before I knew it “Waka Waka” was resonating throughout the room, albeit from the beginning of the song.

Thus ended my role in Lynne’s show, and when it finished, her group was still standing somewhat paralyzed in front of the crowd, in disbelief that so much had gone wrong.

My co-tutors later helped me realize that the vague instrumental had indeed been “Waka Waka,” but our director had tweaked the sound levels for the previous song, and apparently he lowered the vocals way too much. This made me feel a bit better, but to the girl who was waiting to dance it really didn’t matter.

I had to collect myself because my group’s show was next, and it went smoothly, with no real blips. But I’m pretty sure I was only somewhat conscious after what had just happened, so I don’t remember it too well. Thankfully, all the music for my show was fine, but that only added to my guilt. It took me a full hour after the show to realize I'd forgotten to give my camera to another tutor during my show, so I have no pictures of the actual show, but we did take pictures before and after.

There are technical difficulties with every show, usually with the music. But I think this was so intense for me because the kids had been so amazing and worked so hard. I had told Lynne earlier that I thought my script was fine, but these kids deserved more than a fine script, and I really wanted my show to express how great the group was. Additionally, it was not even my group that suffered from all these problems, so I was causing another tutor to experience painful disappointment. Everything that was my responsibility in the show went wrong.

The rest of the night began with tears. I somehow managed to lead the crowd of parents and the campers in a final rendition of “The Jellyfish,” and when the show finished most of the girls in my class and Lynne’s class broke down. Not because of the technical problems (thank god) but because they were so sad that camp was over.

I think the show finished around 8 pm, and all five of my campers (as well as about 10-15 others) were still there at 10 pm. This is highly unusual. While explaining to some of the kids in my group how much I appreciated them and how because they were enthusiastic, all the little kids were enthusiastic. They asked me if I was coming back next year and I told them not for camp, but the next time I was in Italy I would certainly visit Casteldaccia because I would have so many people to see. This made the one girl who hadn’t yet cried begin. I was on the verge of tears, so I had to stop talking for a little while.

Lynne and I (whose groups had worked together throughout the two weeks) took pictures with our students in dozen of permutations, and the problems from the show didn’t seem to matter. I was hugging my campers (often to console them while crying), which I was especially happy to do because I much prefer the American style of hugging to the Italian style of kissing on the cheek.

The parents provided a tasty buffet outside, and then our kids initiated what is most certainly the indicator of a great camp: a closing warm-up circle (pictured). They sang one song from each tutor (at this camp we each had 2-4 songs that we would occasionally sing in the opening and closing circles, they chose “Baby Shark” from my repertoire), and the energy was unbelievable. The parents formed a circle around our circle, which was also exciting (but they didn’t sing along).

One thing that’s been new, at least for me, this year, is Facebook friend requests from campers. Before this camp, I’d rejected all of them, sending each a message with my email address if they wanted to keep in touch. It just didn’t feel right to be Facebook friends with 10-12 year-olds. But with this group? I was excited to get their friend requests. So far, I’m friends with 10/11 of my class and Lynne's class, her smallest boy who probably doesn't have Facebook being the exception.

Again, I apologize for the length of this post (literally 4.5 pages in Word), but I didn’t want to forget anything when I try to remember the end of Casteldaccia, and I’m sure I did anyway.